Put a pocket in it!
Pockets are a practical and popular feature of any hand made garment and whilst we do not usually include pockets in our patterns, the beauty of being a sewer is the ability to adapt and change a pattern for your personal preference and style and in-seam pockets are an easy addition to make.
What is an in-seam pocket?
An in-seam pocket is a pocket hidden between the seams of your garment, usually found in the side seams between the front and back pieces. They are the most practical pocket to add as they are not visible on the outside so will not alter the silhouette of the garment, but will add a discreet storage space for small items or your hands!
TIP: In-seam pockets will work best in patterns where there is plenty of ease across the hips. If the garment is fitted across the hips (like our Summer in New York dress) we would avoid adding pockets.
Several of our patterns would be suitable to add in-seam pockets to including Summer in London, Autumn in London and our upcoming pattern, Spring in New York. In this blog post we will show you how to insert in-seam pockets using our Summer in London pattern, although the same process will apply to our other patterns mentioned above and many other patterns too!
How to add in-seam pockets to Summer in London
You will need:
- our Summer in London pattern; and
- our pocket bag template which you can download for free here.
Instructions
1. Once you have downloaded your free pocket bag template, cut out in your chosen fabric. You should have 2 corresponding pairs of pockets (4 pocket bags in total).
TIP: As the pockets will be hidden, this is a great way to use up any small scraps or offcuts of fabric that you have left. A pocket in a contrasting fabric will add a beautiful surprise feature to your garment, although make sure the pocket fabric is a similar weight to your main fabric to avoid adding bulk to your garment.
You will now need to make two marks on each pocket bag to indicate the pivot points for when you are sewing each pocket together. To do this measure 1.5cm from the top of the straight edge and mark this point with a pin. Then measure 1.5cm in from this point and mark this with a fabric marker. This will be your first pivot point. Repeat at the bottom of the pocket bag. This will be your second pivot point.
2. Finish the curved edge of all 4 pocket bags leaving the straight edge unfinished.
3. You will now need to decide where you would like the pockets to sit. As we are inserting our pockets into our Summer in London dress, we have chosen to insert the pockets 15cm from the waist seam, however this is a guide only. If you would prefer your pockets are higher or lower, you can simply move them up or down as required. To find where you would like the pockets to go, you can always hold the skirt piece against you and see where your hand would comfortably sit in a pocket and measure this distance from the top of the skirt. Alternatively, if you have an existing garment with pockets, measure the distance from the waist to the top of the pocket opening.
4. Take the front skirt piece and place right side up. Measure 15cm (or whatever your preferred distance is) from the waist edge and mark this point along each side seam using a fabric marker or a pin. This is where the top of the pocket bags will sit. Take one pocket bag and place this against the skirt so the right sides are together and the straight edge of the pocket bag is aligned with the side seam of the skirt and the top of the pocket bag is sitting at the 15cm marker. (The body of the pocket bag should be sitting in towards the skirt as shown in the photo). Pin together along the straight edge of the pocket bag. Take the corresponding pocket bag and repeat for the other side seam making sure you place this pocket bag at exactly the same distance from the waist.
5. You will now need to repeat step 4 for the back skirt pieces. The back skirt of the Summer in London dress is in two pieces so make sure that you place the pocket bags against the side seams without the double notch. (The double notch indicates the centre back seam of the dress where the concealed zip will be inserted).
TIP: Make sure you really take your time with steps 4 and 5. If you do not measure accurately then the pocket bags will not line up when you sew the front and back skirt pieces together at step 9.
6. Sew each pocket bag to the front and back skirt pieces along the straight edge only using a 1cm seam allowance. Finish each seam (so the side seam and pocket bag are finished together) and then press the pocket bags away from the skirt.
7. Understitch the seam to the pocket bag for all 4 pocket bags.
8. Now place the front and back skirt pieces right sides together and pin along the side seams and around the curved edge of the pocket bags. Do not pin the straight edge as this is the opening for your hands!
9. Starting at the top waist edge, sew together with a 1.5cm seam allowance. When your needle is aligned with the first pivot point, put your needle down into the fabric, lift the pressor foot and pivot the skirt so that the pocket bag is now directly in front of you. Place the pressor foot down and sew across the seam and around the entire pocket bag 1.5cm from the edge until you reach the second pivot point. Sew back across the seam to the skirt pieces and place the needle down, lift the presser foot and pivot again. Place the pressor foot down and continue sewing the rest of the seam to the bottom of the skirt.
10. Press the pockets and side seams towards the front skirt.
Congratulations. You now have a pocket in London!